It's definitely a pvp server... you'll know it the first time you hit a contested zone. Doesn't matter if you like BGs or open world pvp, because I've found no shortage of either. Obviously if you are planning to lvl past twink 19 then you can expect to get ganked a lot. A lot. A LOT.
If that is an issue for you then just stop your experience at the forum. We don't need any more teary-eyed 12-year-old kids complaining that life isn't fair.
Personally I prefer the open world fighting. LOS, mobs, and other randoms jumping in make it exciting. And there have been a ton mass alli/horde encounters. Screenshots are everywhere.
tl;dr - yes, worth playing for pvp